Red Light Therapy: Hype or Help? We Tried It

They're all over your feed: glowing masks, lit-up faces, before-and-afters that look a little too good. Red light therapy has gone from dermatologist's clinic to bathroom shelf in a couple of years, with price tags anywhere from £50 to well over £400.

So we ran it through the filter. What does the research actually say, what should you look for if you buy one, and what happened when we used one every day?

What red light therapy actually is

LED light therapy shines specific wavelengths of light onto the skin. Unlike UV, it doesn't tan or burn. The idea is that certain wavelengths are absorbed by skin cells and may support the processes involved in repair and collagen production.

Not all colours are equal. The two with the most research for skin are:

• Red light, roughly 630 to 660nm, which works near the surface.
• Near-infrared, roughly 810 to 850nm, which you can't really see and which reaches a little deeper.

Blue light, often included on masks, is mainly studied for breakouts rather than ageing.

What the research says

The honest picture: there is genuine evidence, but most of it comes from small studies, often using professional-grade devices that are more powerful than what you'd use at home.

Where it looks promising

Studies of red and near-infrared light are associated with modest improvements in fine lines, skin texture and overall skin tone, and some show changes linked to collagen. Red and blue light together have reasonable evidence for calming mild to moderate breakouts.

Where it falls short

Results are gradual, typically over weeks to months, and they're subtle rather than dramatic. Independent testing of home devices is limited, so a mask's marketing claims often aren't backed by testing of that specific device. A safety certification means it's safe to sell, not proof that it works.

no light turns back the clock. but the right one, used consistently, can make a quiet, real difference.

We tried it

We've been using a red light mask for 10 minutes, every single day.

The honest verdict? Skin is noticeably different: a little smoother, a little more even. The thing we didn't expect: on the days we use it, spots seem to settle faster than they did without it.

It's not a facelift, and no one has stopped us in the street. It's a quiet, real difference, which is exactly what the research says to expect. The catch is the "every single day" part. Skip a week and you won't see much.

How to choose a mask that's worth it

Look for the wavelengths on the box

A good brand will tell you exactly what it uses: red around 630 to 660nm, near-infrared around 810 to 850nm. If a brand won't say, skip it.

Check what the brand actually tested

Look for testing on that specific device, not borrowed studies about LED in general. Vague claims and "clinically proven" without detail are a flag.

Think about whether you'll use it

Comfort, session length and whether it's cordless matter more than they sound. The best mask is the one you'll actually put on every day for at least six weeks.

Using it safely

• Wear the eye protection if it comes with it, and don't look directly into the LEDs.
• Give it at least six weeks of regular use before you judge it.
• If you take light-sensitising medication, use light-sensitising skincare such as some retinoids, or have a skin condition affected by light, check with your pharmacist or GP first.
• It works alongside the basics (SPF, a good cleanse, sleep), not instead of them.

More honest breakdowns: does collagen actually work? and CBD in skincare.